Black Bathrooms And Bathroom Accessories

For many people who are considering redecorating their bathroom, black is one of the last colours that they will think of; pale pastel shades, and blues and greens are far more traditional colours. However, black is actually a great colour for a bathroom and with ranges of black coloured washroom accessories becoming more and more common, there is no excuse for black bathrooms not to be considered. Black bathrooms are effortlessly chic looking, without looking at all pretentious. They are also modern looking, without the risk of becoming unfashionable, because black is a timeless colour. Even if you do not want to have an entirely black bathroom, black and white monochrome bathrooms can still look particularly impressive compared to traditionally pastel shaded rooms.

One of the main worries for those who decide to have black bathroom fittings put in is that the bathroom may end up seeming too dark as a result. Since bathrooms often have windows that are smaller than the windows in other rooms, distorted windows to stop people seeing in, or no windows at all, the lack of natural light is a worry to some people, and they fear that dark fixtures will exacerbate the problem. However, this need not be an issue if you consider this whilst designing your new bathroom. Simple steps such a classy gold taps or fixtures; big, well lit mirrors or coloured bathroom accessories should be considered when designing the bathroom, to ensure that the room will not appear too dark.

If you currently have white fixtures and fittings, it is actually possible to update the look of your existing bathroom without having to completely refit the room, simply by adding black bathroom accessories to the room. This can be a good way to add a darker touch to the room if you are still concerned about the room appearing too dark. It is also the perfect step if your bathroom is very small, which can also make dark rooms seem a lot darker. These bathroom accessories will complement the existing fittings but creating a stunning contrast and giving the room a fashionable monochrome edge. In an existing white bathroom, it is only necessary to add two or three pieces of black bathroom furniture to create this look, although you can of course add more if you desire. Of course, adding dark coloured accessories to a light coloured bathroom is also a great way to help to prevent the bathroom from appearing to be too lightly coloured.

Monochrome and black bathrooms often look best when designers strive for the minimalist look, so accessories and bathroom furniture which help to keep the room tidy are especially popular. Bathroom designers often strive to install cupboards, units and shelving systems which are specifically designed to help to keep unnecessary bathroom clutter out of sight. If you are unable to install such cupboards, units or shelving systems, black bathroom accessories like toothbrush holders and soap dispensers will help to keep the bathroom looking as clean as possible.

4 Style Types of Bathroom Accessories to Choose From

How you add bathroom accessories to your room depends on a bunch of different things. The first thing you may want to look at is the style of the rest of your home. For example, an antiquated home would look really odd with a more modern bathroom.

There is also your own personality that you want to bring out in your bathroom accessories. Each of has our own tastes and dislikes as well as energy level. A kid’s bath would be designed in a more fun way filled with things that are cool. Where as a master bath would be much more suited for things that are elegant and peaceful.

Color is an important role when choosing bathroom accessories. A room that is brightly lit may be better suited for colors that are a little muted to tone it down a little.

In this article we will discuss 4 styles of bathroom accessories you can choose from.

1. The classy bathroom – In this style you may look for elegance in your bathroom accessories. Quite often you see this type of bathroom with subtle toned down colors. You may want to start with a shower curtain in a floral pattern.

Build on it with things that coordinate or cause contrast depending on what affect you want. You could choose bath rugs that match a color in the floral pattern then add a soap dispenser, trash can and matching towels to build on it.

2. The muted bathroom – In this style you look for soft color tones with nothing bright or with floral patterns. You could start with a shade of blue for your shower curtains and then add bathroom accessories made of frosted glass with high-end spa quality bath towels in the same color.

Blue isn’t the only color you can try, green or shades of both blue and green or other natural colors also work great together. For the muted style look, solid colors or square patchwork patterns work best for your shower curtains then using a complimentary or matching color for the rest of the bathroom accessories.

3. The bright bathroom – This design style calls for bright vivid colors like red. Start with a white paint on your walls then add bright shower curtains in a red color with matching rugs and towels. It can make your bath come alive with an energy that you can feel.

It is also possible to start with any bright solid color then choose other brightly colored bathroom accessories as accent pieces and create an unusual look that is appealing. Try different bright color together and you may find something unique that shows off your personality.

Creating blocks of bright colors is a great way to build a bathroom theme that looks really good.

4. The fun bathroom – These types of designs are generally saved for the kids or those young at heart. There are many types of shower curtains that can fall into this style. You can go with an airy tropical theme or one designed to look like an aquarium.

The sky is the limit here from dolphin shaped bath rugs to fish on the shower curtains it can make for a fun and cool theme. If it’s for your kids you can choose their favorite cartoon character as the focal point, or you may want to try a shower curtain that teaches them something like weather patterns or the periodic table.

These 4 styles aren’t the end all be all of choosing bathroom accessories, but it gives you a place to start. Remember to follow your desires and tastes choose something you’ll love and you will have a bathroom design that you can be proud of.

Kitchen Cabinet Installation – Step-By-Step Instructions on How to Install Kitchen Cabinets Yourself

Now that you have your new kitchen cabinets, you are ready to move on to the next big step…..Installing your kitchen cabinets. While the actual installation of the Kitchen Cabinets isn’tall that hard, the critical first step is measuring and marking out where the cabinets will go. By placing layout markings on the walls and floors, it will not only help you with kitchen cabinet placement and stud locations, but it will also help you locate where adjustments and shims will be required. Before we get started there are a couple of items that you will need for the project:

Pencil

Level or Laser Level

Drill

Tape Measure

Stud Finder

Clamps

1″ x 3″ Piece of lumber (6′-8′ in length) or an Inverted U-shaped frame (see notes below)

Shims

Screws (long enough to go 1 1/2 into the studs)

Utility knife or chisel

Marking Compass

An extra set of hands (you may have to bribe one of your friends)

As I mentioned above, you have the option of using a piece of 1′ x 3′ lumber for the installation or building a frame to support the cabinets (I have included a picture of a sample frame below). This can be made out of 2′ x 4’s and should be tall enough to support the bottom of your wall cabinets. If you plan on installing more than one kitchen, then I would suggest the frame, but a piece of lumber will do just fine if this is a one time event. In either case, you will need another set of hands to help with the installation.

In this case we bought (RTA) Ready-To-Assemble Kitchen Cabinets from RTA Kitchen & Bathroom Cabinet Store. Now the kitchen cabinets are assembled, we are ready to start marking out our layout lines. Some people start with the base cabinets, but we are going to start with the wall cabinets first. There is no right or wrong way to start, I just prefer to start with the upper cabinets first.

1. Use a level and a pencil to draw a parallel line across the wall about 3 inches up from the floor. Measure down from this line, to the floor, and find the floors high point (if it has one), and mark a line at that point. From that high point, Measure up 34 1/2 inches and draw a level line across the wall to designate the top of the base cabinets.

2. Now that you have the top of the base cabinets marked, measure up another 19 1/2 inches and a level line across the wall to indicate the bottom of the wall cabinets. Lightly mark each cabinets’ dimensions and placement on the wall to make sure that your original layout is correct.

3. Use a stud finder to locate the wall studs. Use a pencil to mark the stud locations at least 6 inches above and below the line for the bottom of the wall cabinets. Draw straight vertical lines between the top and bottom marks to indicate the center of the studs.

4. If you decided to go with the piece of 1′ x 3′ lumber, now is where you will use (if you decided to go with the U-shaped frame, it will come into play after all your lines are laid out). Screw a temporary 1′ x 3′ support rail to the wall, aligning the top edge of the rail with the line for the bottom edge of the wall cabinets. Attach it by driving 3 or 4 two inch screws through the rail into the wall studs.

5. Now that we have all the lines marked, it is time to start installing your kitchen cabinets. We are going to start with the corner cabinet (here is where your helper’s extra set of hands will be needed). Place the corner cabinet onto the temporary support rail and have your helper hold the corner cabinet in place. Drill pilot holes through the sturdy cabinet back or its support rail and into the wall studs. Screw the cabinet into the wall using two screws that are long enough to penetrate the studs by at least 1 1/2 inches. Check the top of the cabinet for level and the front of the cabinet for plumb. If you have to correct the position, just back the screws out a little bit and top shims behind the cabinet at the stud locations. If it is plumb and level, drive the screws all the way in and add several more into each stud to ensure that the cabinet is secured tightly to the wall.

6. Now we are going to move onto the cabinets on either side of the corner cabinet. As you install each one, use the clamps to secure each cabinet to the neighboring cabinet and then check it for plumb with your level. On faceframe cabinets, it is a good idea to drill two 1/8 inch pilot holes through the sides of the faceframe and use screws. In this case, with frameless, ready-to-assemble kitchen cabinets we are going to screw through the plywood sides and use shims in between the cabinets to ensure a tight fit and make sure that the cabinet faces are plumb.

7. After all the wall cabinets are in place, install the corner or end base case cabinet. Use shims where needed to level the cabinet and raise it up to the line which indicates the high point of the floor. Be sure it is level from front to back and from side to side, then screw it to the wall studs. If you don’t have a diagonal corner cabinet or blind base cabinet in the corner, push the adjoining cabinet into place and clamp the two units together. Add a filler strip if needed to allow the doors and drawers enough clearance to open and close properly. If necessary, tap shims under the cabinet and behind it to adjust for plumb and level.

8. Drive screws through the cabinet back (and shims) into the wall studs. Trim any excess material from the shims with a sharp chisel or knife. Continue to add adjoining cabinets in this manner, joining them the same way you connected the wall cabinets in step 6.

9. If your cabinets end up butting against another wall, you may need a filler strip to make up the last few inches. If you have custom cabinets, they should have been built to fill this gap, but if you are using stock or RTA Kitchen Cabinets the filler strip may be needed. If you do need to use a filler strip, leave the last cabinet detached from the other cabinets. Clamp a straightedge to the face of the nearest installed unit, extending far enough for you to put alignment marks on the end wall. Allow a 3/4″ offset behind those marks (for the thickness of the filler piece) and fasten a cleat to the wall. Then install and fasten the last cabinet and measure the gap between its face frame and the wall.

If the wall is flat, simply rip the filler board to the required width and fasten it in place. If the wall is irregular, you’ll have to scribe-fit the filler board. Start by setting a marking compass to the width of the gap, then place a strip of 1″-wide masking tape along the filler board in the area where it needs to be trimmed. Clamp the board to the end cabinet’s face frame, then trace the wall contour with the compass. Remove the board and cut along the scribe line with a jig saw, then reinstall it to check the fit. When it’s right, drive screws through the adjacent face frame into the edge of the filler board. Screw or nail the other side to the cleat.

At this point, your kitchen cabinet installation is complete. If you purchased matching crown molding or any other details, these should be easily installed now. Depending on whether you had to use shims under the base cabinets, you may have to install some trim pieces by the toe kicks to cover up the shims or any gaps at the bottom of the kitchen cabinets.

I hope this helps make your kitchen cabinet installation as smooth as possible. If you need any help with cabinet selection, kitchen layout tips, or ideas for cabinet styles, check out RTA Kitchen & Bathroom Cabinet Store

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